How to Use a Derma Roller

You can improve your skin by 1000% when you know how to use a derma roller properly!

Learning how to use a derma roller the correct way is very important, as the roller does pierce the skin. Therefore, preparation matters!

Derma rollers can be used to benefit the skin, including removing wrinkles, acne scars, and other flaws. Derma rollers are rolling devices that contain several rolls of tiny, thin needles. Users roll the derma roller over problem areas and the needles puncture the spot, helping build up collagen, create new cells and break down scar tissue. Even though derma rollers are often used at spas, salons and dermatology clinics, they are also available for home use.


You will need to have a sterile environment when you begin. Learning how to use a derma roller at home doesn’t mean anything if you wind up with an infection during the first time you use it. To prepare, ensure your hands are clean – wash well with soap and water, or you can wear disposable gloves. Clean and disinfect a table on which you will place the pertinent items: the derma roller, a bowl of ice water, clean clothes and towel, paper towels, moisturizing cream, numbing gel, a timer, and more disinfectant, preferably in a glass.

Ensure the skin where you will use the derma roller is entirely clean. If you will be using the derma roller for the first time, follow instructions on how to sterilize it before you begin.


Make sure to swab down everything you will touch with alcohol, including the spot you will treat, your hands, and all equipment. Let the alcohol evaporate. Stretch the skin with your hand to make it as flat as possible, and you are ready to begin.

  • Roll the derma roller in a star pattern, five times up and down, five times left to right, and five times diagonally. Lift the roller slightly
    How to Use a Derma Roller

    How to Use a Derma Roller – Rolling patterns

    between each path, as you want to evenly prick the skin. Use very light pressure in sensitive areas, and medium pressure in other areas.

  • Remember to use a derma roller with care. This means you never apply too much pressure – if you draw blood, you are pushing too hard. Take care of your skin by sterilizing everything, every single time. Never use the derma roller on your eyelids or other areas that might be extremely sensitive, as you could do serious damage.
  • When you are done, your skin will be red, like sunburn. Keep the area moist for the first few days, preferably covered with an appropriate ointment. Don’t go into the sun for several days, and avoid makeup and harsh cleansers during this time. The area might start to peel in a few days; don’t mess with it. Just allow the collagen to grow.

Notes and Precautions

For best results, plan your sessions carefully and stick to a routine. If you happen to have an active breakout, don’t use needles larger then .50mm over breakout. Avoid using it if you have sunburn as well. When you do use it, keep sessions to only once a week at the most.

This video can tell you much more about the instructions:

How Often to Use Derma Roller

Knowing how to use derma roller means also knowing how often to use it. Smaller needles, such as  0.25mm, can be used every other day on the same area. Needles of 0.5mm can be used once or twice per week, .75mm or 1mm can be used once a week depending on your skin’s sensitivity.

Different Derma Roller Sizes for Different Purposes

How to Use a Derma Roller

How to Use a Derma Roller – Different needle lengths

Knowing how to use derma roller at home is very different than the process used in the spa or clinic. Derma rollers for professional use are typically between 0.5mm and 2.5mm. In some cases, this might be large enough to cause severe bleeding – in that case, anesthesia will be administered. What you use at home depends upon the purpose. Here are the most popular sizes:

0.5mm: For use on the rest of the body to apply products, some acne spots, and pigmentation
.75mm: For use on fine wrinkles, individual deep wrinkles, loose skin, sun damage, shallow scars and some burn & acne scars
1.0mm: Used for some burn scars, deep acne scars, and some dense scars.

No matter the size of the roller needles, clean the derma roller with warm water and dishwashing liquid, being careful with the needles, and then disinfect by soaking in alcohol for 20 minutes. Let the derma roller air dry, then put it back in its protective case.